Coon Boxing: The Knockout Punch Part 2

Just as a prize-fighter's key to success in the ring relies on his ability to 'locate' punches on an opponent, the key to the coon trapper's success with boxes (actually any trapper regardless of target species) relies on location. Littering coon boxes haphazardly and randomly will be just as ineffective as a fighter flailing wildly at Jack Dempsey. Finding available food sources will help develop a system for setting boxes on well-traveled trails. As mentioned in the first article in this series, I prefer to start getting boxes out preseason (about a week in advance where legal) to make setting opening day much more efficient, as it's a matter of impaling a fresh carp head, a smear of bait, or a shot of trailing scent, setting the trap and moving to the next box. Also, when setting boxes preseason (say 3-4 days before setting traps) I also like to pre-bait with a chunk of fish and/or a couple of jumbo marshmallows. I figure since I'm already getting boxes out, might as well get the coon a free meal, and let him investigate the box and lose some of his caution when approaching the next time with a 220 guarding the entrance. Prebaiting boxes will definitely improve your catch per set ratio, especially over the first 3-5 check days. I also cannot over-emphasize the value of gangsetting with coon boxes. If the location is worthy of one, it's worthy of two, especially considering the frequency of possum catches in some areas of the country. You cannot catch doubles, triples, quadruples, etc of any animal without having multiple sets in the first place.

I want to use this opportunity to encourage you to use the utmost discretion when using 220s with coon boxes (or any trap or snare) in areas where there's a chance of catching a bird dog, a hound, or the farmer's dog. It's definitely an easy way to get into an avoidable situation.

Thanks for reading the second blog in the Coon Boxing series. I really appreciate all of the positive feedback I've received after the first blog, it seemed like many of you were able to get some real value from the content.

Coon Boxing: The Knockout Punch Part 1

There's been a thousand different bucket/box (let's call them containers) designs and configurations over the years. Ultimately, your personal decision on which route to take will be determined by ease of transport, ease of construction, and cost. At conventions I've found buckets of every color and shape you can imagine for sale, as well as wooden boxes, wire mesh tunnels and tubes, even sheet metal boxes! Fortunately, I have about a hundred coon boxes at my disposal, although they would fill a horse trailer, which is why I try to get out as many as possible preseason.

Personally, I prefer a custom built wood coon box about 24 in long by 11 inches wide and 10 inches tall, with a 10 in bottom at the back of the box and a hardware cloth or mesh wire back for better airflow. Some of the boxes are open on both ends for using a trap on each end, which enables doubles at each box. On the front sides of the box, we cut 4 inch deep rounded grooves to snugly fit the springs of a 220. The front or trap-end of the box doesnt have a floor, so when it's set the front half of the box is on natural bare ground. The back half of the box does have the standard wood floor, which I pound a nail through to provide an ideal holder to impale a carp head.

The profile of a fish head with it's tell-tale glaring eye really seems to get the coon going. It's crucial to give the coon something to look at in the back of the back, like the fish head I just mentioned. Its exponentially more visually attractive than just a glob of bait or a puddle of fish oil. Even the old foil ball trick will do the trick. I cannot stress this enough to give the coon something to look at and long after to complement your lure and/or bait odors. A carp head with a smear of my Black Label bait and a shot of fish oil or Ulti-Mag Cherry is ideal, and provides a smorgasbord type effect.

When using a shorter box or bucket, the coon may simply try reaching the fish head in the back rather then entering, which may cause some headaches with snapped traps and pullouts. The longer 24 inch box, as well as using fully closing or magnum style bodygrips such as the Bulldog 220 (check them out here http://www.kaatzbros.com/products.php?sub=196) or the Belisle 220 ( http://www.kaatzbros.com/products.php?sub=all&q=Belisle+220) greatly reduces the pullouts and snapped traps. You will notice a few catches by one or both front feet with these traps, where standard 220s may have simply been snapped. Also, be sure the box itself is solidly bedded in the ground to keep the coon from rolling or moving it while investigating, which can lead to more snapped traps.

Thanks for reading Part 1 of the Coon Boxing Series, take care...KK

Our new blog...

Hey, as our first official post on the new blog, I wanted to take the time to thank you for reading and supporting us. We will be posting as often as we can with free content, Q & A, special guest interviews (look for an interview of Kyle and I by Jackie Malone), as well as special pricing and sales at www.kaatzbros.com and at our eBay store at http://stores.ebay.com/Kaatz-Bros-Lures
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